Bra Fitting

The quick-and-dirty method for figuring out your "starting point" bra size:

1. Get a fabric tape measure.

2. Take a firm measurement of your underbust (i.e. your ribcage right under your breasts, without wearing a bra so the band won't get in the way).
Write this number down. This is your approximate band size.*

3. Take a fairly loose bust measurement while wearing your best-fitting (non-sports, non-padded) bra [note: alternatively, and especially if you don't have a bra that fits at all, take this measurement braless while leaning forward at the waist, so you make sure to get all of your breast tissue/volume accounted for]. The main goal here is to measure how much breast tissue you have, so measuring while wearing a bra that squishes you down at all isn't going to be helpful or accurate.
Write this number down.

4. Subtract the number you got in Step 2 from the number you got in Step 3. The resulting number indicates approximate cup size, using 1 inch per cup letter (i.e. 4 inch difference = D cup, 5 inch = DD, etc). Use this U.S. vs U.K. Size Chart to help you determine the correct cup size (starting at A=1). The majority of good, well-known bra companies use UK sizing.

An example:
Underbust measurement: 28 (band size)
Bust measurement: 34
34-28 = 6 inch difference (A, B, C, D, DD, E)
Bra size: 28E


*note: if you get an odd number (like 33), you'll need to round to the nearest even number for your band size - generally it's best to round down, but experiment with both 32's and 34's (in this case).

Exceptions to the "rules":
-Women who are more muscular and have "flared ribcages" may need to go up a band size or so from what their underbust measurement indicates, especially if they have smaller breasts.
-Women who have larger underbust measurements and/or more cushion around their ribcages may well be able to go down up to several band sizes from their underbust measurement, as bands get stretchier as they get larger (a woman with a 39" ribcage, for example, may possibly do best with a 36 band)
-Women with little cushion around their rib cage ("bony ribcage"), often paired with a small underbust measurement, may need to go up a band size for comfort.
-Cup size may vary a bit based on breast shape.
-Remember that this gives a starting point size only. Bra fitting is an art, not a science, and you'll probably have to try on several things to get the best idea of what size and shape works for you. Go with the bra and size that fits and feels the best!


For further reading:

More on Measuring and Calculators:
List of 5 Good Bra Calculators
How to Measure Your Bra Size from Thin and Curvy
On Sizing - from Sweet Nothings
Fitting Guide from the subreddit ABraThatFits

Fitting Tips:
Detailed Fitting Instructions from Breakout Bras
Five Signs of a Poorly-Fitting Bra
U.S. vs U.K. Size Chart
Why Wear the Right Bra Size?

Database of Bras and Resources/Bra Measurements and Comparisons/:
Bratabase
Busty Resources on Wiki

31 comments:

  1. Hi

    "**note: if you don't have a bra that fits at all, take this measurement braless while leaning forward at the waist, so you make sure to get all your breast tissue/volume accounted for."

    Why have no one ever told me this before :O I was three inches of measuring from standing up. From 103 cm - 111 cm while leaning forward. That is three cup sizes :O No wonder everything feels small.Thank you!

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    1. Hi, thanks for commenting! :) If a bra feels too small in the cup, you'll definitely want to try a cup size up! If you measure your bust both ways (standing up and then again leaning forward), and the difference is quite a lot between the two measurements (say over a few inches), you may want to start off by trying the average of the two measurements - a little up from the standing measurement but not quite as much as the leaning over one. That may give the best starting point, although it will depend somewhat on the person and their breast shape. :)

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  2. Lovely Post! Good fitting advice. I will have to try it later and see what I get but so far, this is one very accurate post( too bad you cant take over a major bra retail chain :P) . I didn't know about the breast tissue/volume thing either.I am so glad you blogged about this because a lot of women have heard terrible advice from shops *the lovely plus four-six bit*.

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    1. Thanks! Glad it could be helpful! :) x

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  3. YEP I just did this, I need ALL new bras, and I am an atypical size as well. My life has just become a lot harder, but hopefully a lot more comfortable!!

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    1. Woohoo, new bras! Let me know if you need any tips for shopping sources :)

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  4. I went to a store that seemed to follow the +8 method...my 32H's weren't impressed by the 40C bra the sales lady was trying to sell me. Thanks goodness there's finally an online calculator that doesn't add inches!

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  5. HI,

    I am brand new to this website and have been very encouraged by what I read here, and was hoping you all could help me? This will be long but I am desperate. I am 5'3 and around 150 lbs, have been since college and I am 36 now. Very flat chested no cleavage. About 4 years ago I decided to go get a bra fitting and was told that out of the four places in my town to go, that Dillards was the one. An older lady with a 25 year bra fitter badge fit me, measuring on top without my shirt saying I was 37. She brought back 38A bras and 36B, and the 36Bs fit horribly, as I thought they would, and the 38s she said fit. I believed her and never had any bra issues.

    Over the years I had gone back to that store and when I would ask to be shown 38A bras the various sales ladies would eyeball me and say "you are not a 38 band." I would leave upset. I resorted to just buying 38A online or going to that store and just saying I needed no help and find them myself. Same thing happened there last week where I was declared 36B.

    Last week I also went to a specialty shop where once again I was told "you are not a 38 band" before being measured. They too took a measurement over my breasts and this lady said I measured 36 overbust but 32(tight) under, so she brought back 34s and 36s in lots of styles. I could hook the 34 but was in big pain. She tried me in 36B and yet again, couldnt find a bra that fit right. Bra bulges mostly in the band area and some over the cup sides. I did find one that sort of worked and bought it.

    Then I went to Victorias secret, where a week before I was also measured over my breasts but for the fifth time had been told "you are so not a 38 band." I didnt bother to try on any bra because I was in disbelief.This was before the Dillards trip. The gal recognized me from my first visit and was really nice when I told her I try on 36B and they about never fit me.She took lots of time with me and concurred that I am 36B, so all three fittings came up with that.I showed her the specialty shop bra that was 36B and i had bulges with and she agreed it didnt fit me, and said, "I think you were fitted in the right size but the wrong style!" You need a wider band and we only carry one bra that will work for you." No one ever tried different styles with wider bands with me on their own.Excited, I tried on the Body By Victoria bra she had and while I still feel there is SOME bulge, I am not bulging over the sides or cup. It feels tight but not bad. When I left the store I remembered that the ONE bra the lady at Dillards fit me that FIT was also wider band.

    My mom and I though,measure me at underbust comfortably at 34. Wouldnt that make me a 38 band? I told the ladies at VS and Dillards there was some bulge under my band but they said it was slight, and that I was used to wearing to large a size so thats why I was noticing it in the 36? I dont have a flared ribcage so is the 36 these 3 companies told me I am a good choice? It feels snug but I am only 34 underbust! Also, how can one lady 4 years ago tell me I am a 38 and then she tells me last week i am 36 when I measure the same then as I do now?

    Any help would be appreciates. 38A LOOKS alot better on me than 36

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  6. I would like to add to my previous post that neither the 36 or 38 ride up on me, but if the 38 is too large shouldn't it ride up? I also had to hike up the straps to almost halfway or more in the 38 if that means anything? And. the clasp of the 36 band where the hooks are slightly touch my skin whereas there was some small space between my back the hook on the 38. Thanks for your help I really need it!

    RADIO10465

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    1. Hi there! :) It definitely sounds like you could use a more supportive band than a 38. With an underbust measurement of 34, you'll be about a 34 band (adding inches to the underbust measurement to get a band size is an outdated method that's unfortunately still used by many US bra stores).

      If a 36 band is feeling too snug, it's most probably because you're wearing a cup that is too small. Do you know what your bust measurement is? The difference in inches between your raw underbust/bust measurement is going to be your approximate cup size - for example, 4 inches of difference is a D cup, 5 inches a DD, 6 inches E, etc.

      It sounds like your main issue is the most common that women face - a too-big band and too-small cups. You might want to enter your measurements into the Sophisticated Pair Bra Calculator (one of the most accurate out there) to see what you get: sophisticatedpair.com/bracalculator.htm
      Your band should feel comfortably snug, but not painfully tight - you should be able to stretch out the bra band about two fingers' worth, but not much more. The cups of your bra should have enough room to encase all of your breast tissue completely, and the center gore should be flush with your sternum.

      For more reading/another place to get advice, I recommend http://www.reddit.com/r/abrathatfits. Good luck! :)

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    2. Hello,

      Thank you for your comments, they helped alot as does this site. I will say the bra lady who fit me at a 32 underbust (she pulled so tight i gasped) did try 34 bands on me, the dillards lady didnt as she thought it would be too tight. The three fit ladies I saw all thought 36A would be a size to try and liked how the band fit me, but oh was I spilling out of the cups. I have wide set breasts and no cleavage unless I bend over, but 36B was tried on me as the A was not good. Bust measurement is 37 and I went to the bra calculator you suggested and also came up with 36B for slightly snug band.There is no spillage, gaping, center gore flush.

      I just have a few more questions. One, I get some light markings from the bra band, NOT the straps. On one side of my body I had an indentation where the band was but it was only maybe an inch long and could have been how I was sitting against the couch. My sister and certain websites say that is not normal, but some say it is. Does anyone else get that? My panties and socks leave marks too.

      The bra is comfortable and I feel more confident in it. My old bra that was too big in the back never rode up, but I hear if they are too big they will? I did slightly feel it shift but not ride up.

      Thanks so much again!

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    3. If your 36B feels good to you and you don't have any signs of a poor fit, I would stick with it! You could try a 34C, the sister size of a 36B, just to see how it works, if you decide to go try more styles/sizes. If you're spilling out of the 36B at all, you might try a 36C.

      Light markings are normal; bras will leave marks just like socks and underwear. If you're getting deep red marks, pain, and/or irritation, that would be something to worry about.

      Bras that are too big in the band don't always obviously ride up, especially if the cups are too small and the band has to stretch to make up; if you can pull the band more than an inch or two away from your body, that's another indication of a too-big band. Shifting is also an indication of a too-large band; the band should be firm and straight.

      Glad to be of help! :)

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    4. Hi,

      I will definetly have to look into sister sizes.The lingerie shop sold me two Felina bras in 36B and already I can hook one of the bras on the tightest clasp . Its snug but I have lots of room in the band when I pull it back. Do Felina bras run bigger in the band? no other store here sells them so I didn't know what to expect. It seemed ok in the store.

      Thank you

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    5. I am not sure about Felina bras in particular (I don't think they run big or small particularly), but it does sound like you'd want to try a 34C next time - same cup volume as 36B, but a more supportive band. The 36B band definitely sounds too roomy for you. Often, brand-new bras that are too big in the band will seem okay in the store when they've never been worn, but once you get home and wear them, they stretch out pretty fast. A well-fitting bra should feel quite snug when brand new, and it'll relax a bit once you've gotten it home and worn it a bit. :)

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  7. Hello. Can't tell you how much I appreciate this. I read your post about Victoria's Secret and wanted to try this out. VS told me I was a 32DD and 34D was my alternate size. I have a hard time finding 32DD on their site and 34D is too lose in the band for me. I tried this measurement out and I got a size of 30G which I'm pretty sure VS doesn't stock at all. I am new in the US and have no clue where to shop for a bra. I would love any suggestions?

    I would have to add that I thought my VS bras fit properly but maybe I don't know since I practically wore a 34B my entire life which I now cringe at because after reading a lot online I can see the massive spillage all over and understand why my breasts kept spilling down the band (what I always thought was because my bras has a short shelf life and just got loose too soon).

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    1. Hi, Gambetto! Nordstrom should have bras in the 30F/FF/G range for you to try (I'm not sure if the 30G measurement you got was US or UK sizing, but generally you want to stick with UK sizing, especially in smaller bands). You may also find those sizes at boutiques in your area. Otherwise, there are many great online options. I'm guessing a 30G would fit you much better than the 34D/32DD's. Good luck in your search!

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    2. Thank you so much for replying! It was US. So I am 30F then?

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    3. That sounds like a good place to start! :) Nordstrom, Dillards, and possibly small shops/boutiques should have your size range, as well as many online stores.

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  8. I just checked out the VS website...I guess my closest size in the ones they have available would be 32DDD...or 32DD. Makes me sad...

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  9. HI,

    I was wearing a band size to big, and was recently put in my correct size. I notice now though, that I am very awar of the band on my body. When I bend over or turn to the side I can feel the band against my back. I couldn't feel that in my larger size. Is this normal?

    Thanks

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    1. It's great that you found a better size! Yes, it's completely normal to feel the bra on your body - it's supposed to be able to give support, so it has to be snug to some degree. In fact, you shouldn't be able to pull the band more than a few fingers' worth away from your body (an inch or so). A snug, firm band may take a little getting used to, but it'll be much more supportive!

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  10. I have a constant problem with bras that they fold and creased above the underwire. Also, the underwires never sit flat in the front because my breasts are set fairly close together. Theoretically my size is 28FF or 30F UK (28.5" underbust, 36" bust). Any advice on what I'm doing wrong? Also, could you suggest any brands, styles, and stores I should try? I live part-time in Virginia and part-time in Rhode Island.

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    1. It sounds like a shape issue - if you think you might have "bottom-heavy" breasts, this post by Braless in Brasil is helpful: http://www.bralessinbrasil.com/2012/10/bottom-heavy-breasts.html

      You might also check out Bratabase for suggestions for styles that may work with what you think your particular shape is. Hope that helps!

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  11. Hi,

    I have posted here before and had one last question. Now that I am wearing a tighter band size, like I mentioned I get red marks, which I know are normal especially for very fair skinned people like me. I also am "squishy" around the ribcage. My question is how long should it take for red marks from the band to go away? The marks around my sides and back go away fairly dast, but the ones under my breasts sometimes take hours to go away, even in wireless bras. Is that still ok? They are not deep red, itchy, painful or anything like that.

    Joie

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    1. Hi Joie - those red marks sound normal. Any clothing that's at all tight (underwear, socks, etc) will leave marks/indentations after wear :) I wouldn't worry unless they're painful or itchy.

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  12. Hi, I have been having a lot of trouble trying to find proper fitting bras. I have found a lot of conflicting information about what constitutes a proper fit. For example, lingerie companies who have a bra calculator and say to add 4 inches to the underbust measurement. IF buying from said company should I calculate based on their info, so that it wont be crazy tight, or go on my regular measurement. I have a 29-30 in ribcage and a 41 inch boob measuremnt. I've been wearing a 36DD or even a 36D for probably 10 years since that's the biggest I can find in the mall. According to my recent research I should be in a 30H or a 30GG (UK). my main concern is should I go on this measurement or that given by the individual company? Thanks

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    1. Hey there - adding four inches is an outdated method that really won't give an accurate size estimate today. With your measurements, about a 30H (UK) sounds like a good place to start for you. If you're in the US and live near a Nordstrom or Dillards, you may be able to find bras in the 30GG-H range to try on (also, check and see if you have any good boutiques in your area). There are many options for your size range online, as well.

      Other sources for checking out reviews, what bras might work best for your shape, etc. are www.bratabase.com and http://www.reddit.com/r/abrathatfits. Good luck!

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  13. I have a question about center gores: why do most women prefer to have their breasts separated? I understand that it can get hot and uncomfortable, but I have always found wires on my breastplate to be very uncomfortable. I tend to go for plunge bras and to me, at least, it feels better to have my breasts touch slightly than to have wires poking at the inside edges of my breasts. I believe they are very close set and the centre gore would have to be about 1cm not to irritate me. I was just wondering if it's a matter of preference or if there is truly some health benefits to having a bra separate the breasts. Thanks in advance,

    JJ

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  14. Hi! I have two questions and hope you can help. =)
    I've recently measured myself and the number are around 35in under and 43 on the bust. I put those number on a calculator online and the size that came up was 36F(UK). Does that sound ok?
    My big question though is if you know how this converts to the french size (since that's the one we use around here). I got 95G (online thing as well) and hope that's the right size since I just order a few bras by parfait and I really really want them to fit.

    thank you so much!

    MC

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    1. A 36F sounds like a good place to start, although you may find a 34FF works better depending on the brand :)
      Parfait bras tend to run small in the band, so I'm guessing a 36F is a good bet for that brand for you. Even if it doesn't quite fit, at least you'll have something to go off of for next time!

      For European sizing, a 36F would equal an 80F. But this also can depend on the brand and how they do sizing. I hope this helps - www.bratabase.com may also be useful to you for looking up brands and asking questions :)

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    2. thank you for your reply. we use mostly the french size, not the european, the 80F (from this chart I found online: http://www.boobytrapwarehouse.com.au/brasizes.htm) would equal a 95F and I own a few bras in that size and they don't fit so well in the cup so I'm trying for the next size, the 95G.

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